Chocolat Cluizel

1. Harvesting

“Chocolate” is made from a fruit, the cocoa pod, which grows on the trunk and branches of its tree called the Theobroma cocoa. When the pods turn to orange (or other colors depending on the variety) the planters know that they are ripe. Then, planters can harvest them and put them into baskets or boxes. This is difficult step as only expert farmers can determine when the pod is ripe. If the planters are mistaken, the cocoa will not have the time to develop all of its flavors and aromas. The pods do not ripen at the same time, even if they are on the same tree. Using a machete, they carefully cut-off the pods from the tree (damaging the tree might be permanent). Then, they open the pods, always by hand, to avoid damaging what is inside: the cocoa beans. This is why despite the development of some machines to harvest more easily, the traditional method is always preferred. Finally, Cocoa beans are removed from their pods with their white pulp (called ‘mucilage’) for the next step: fermentation. The quality of the beans is controlled at every step, and a great amount of pulp can be a good indicator of the future quality of the chocolate.

2. Fermentation and Drying

After harvesting, cocoa beans are placed in fermentation boxes. Fermentation is when sugars and starches are broken down into acids or alcohol. This process allows cocoa beans to develop all of its delicate flavors, and its acidity. The fermentation process can last up to seven days, depending on multiple factors such as climate, buyer’s request, desired “taste,” and so on. Beans are placed in a warm and moist environment, often wooden boxes covered with burlap bags or banana leaves. Beans are periodically stirred to assure an equal fermentation. During this process, they will naturally lose their pulp and almost 33% of their weight. For the most part, the cocoa beans are sun-dried for about 1-2 weeks to prevent mold growth and rot, which makes their color change from white to brown. Also, their humidity level drops from 60% to 7%. Cluizel prefers a more traditional method, drying on plank trays versus the quicker method of using gas burners. This is also a difficult step because sometimes, as in South America, the climate is not favorable, with frequent torrential showers. The use of covered greenhouses helps the drying process.

4. Grinding

During the next step, the cocoa nibs are grinded into a paste called chocolate liquor or cocoa mass, not because it is alcoholic, but because it is in a “liquid” form. That “liquid” form is due to the heat generated by the grinding process, paired with the high amount of fat – cocoa butter – in the cocoa nibs. The amount of cocoa mass will impact the final taste of the chocolate. The machine used by chocolate makers is called a Mixer/Melangeur. Then, the mix will go through a pre-refiner and then final refiner to obtain a smooth mix. Great chocolate shouldn’t be grainy!

5. Conching

The last step is the additions to the mix such as cocoa mass, the sugar of the cocoa butter, milk, and vanilla. Some add soy lecithin (Cluizel does not use soy lecithin). The conche is a “bowl” containing rotating granite rollers and a granite slab, which are motorized. The friction caused by the rotating stones generates heat, which evaporates and removes the bad acids.